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Folegandros



The main port of Karavostassi is situated in the east of the island at the innermost end of an indented bay. Here, colourful caïques await you to take you to the near deserted creeks.
This unpretentious little village, dominated by the Agios Artemios chapel, is nevertheless full of charm, with its cheerful bars and white pebble beaches shaded by a row of tamarisk trees. It is surrounded by a succession of rocky spurs and creeks that are ideal for swimming. Scattered about are several chapels, most of them hidden amongst half-abandoned sheep barns. Watching the sunrise is a wonderful experience in clear weather.


This neighbourhood is located on the edge of the cliffs at Chora. It was built under Venetian domination and there are similarities with the Kastros of Antiparos and Sifnos.
It is nearly triangular in shape with two entries, two main roads, a large number of covered passageways and a square. But there are very few
churches as the place was considered as a defensive district. On the east side can be found the oldest church on the island. It is dedicated to Aghia Eleoussa and Agioi Anargyroi and houses splendid 18th-century icons. The view over the cliffs and the neighbouring islands is sublime.
The way the Kastro is laid out gives the impression that the rows of houses nestling closely against each other form one stronghold within another. The narrow lanes are laid out in such a way that the facades create shade for each other.


The church is on the hill of Paleokastro, to the north of Chora, which it dominates. You can get there by following a trail bordered by a low white wall.
There is a miraculous icon of the Virgin which is paraded in front of each house during the Easter procession. Great festivities take place where absolutely everyone is invited to the homes of the inhabitants.
The icon is then taken to Karavostassi and put in a caïque to continue its ceremonious journey.


This is the only road which connects Chora to Pano Meria. It is especially frequented by mule-drivers and their herds. But once in a while the bus does come. The road skirts the ridges, offering spectacular views over various parts of the island. Halfway along the road you'll discover the Museum of Popular Art set up on a restored farm.
This little museum houses a very interesting collection of domestic utensils. This is also a perfect example of the island's rural dwellings. For on Folegandros, a "themonia", or rural house, is always designed on the same principle.
Built with its back to the north so that it is protected from the winds, it is divided up into several buildings. First of all the main house, then just beside it a small building housing the storeroom, the wood oven and the oil press. Then come the cattle sheds, where the water tank is also used as a feeding trough for the animals, a washtub, a wine press, a hen house and a threshing floor. All the way around are enclosures marked out by low walls with the essential lemon tree protected from the winds by a circular wall and surrounded by a trench, a vineyard and a vegetable garden for summer vegetables.


Pano Meria is north-west of Chora. Here is the bus terminus. It is essentially a rural region made up of hamlets, each consisting of several farms, named after the first family to become established there. These groups are almost like neighbourhoods, each one with its own church.
Time stands still at Pano Meria. The inhabitants still
tirelessly carry on their ancestral traditions. It feels like you are in a different world. Moreover, the scenery is very impressive. Hikers can discover a thousand and one fragrant trails. Taverns serve a local speciality: the "matsata", a type of stew cooked with a cock or rabbit and served with home-made pasta.


You can take a beautiful tour where you will admire the cliffs and go swimming in several turquoise-coloured creeks.
Katergo, Galifos, Aï- Nikolas and Livadaki are amongst the most beautiful of the beaches and creeks.

 

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